Today was a good day. I actually had fun with this one. My friend needed his backup bike ready to go at the last minute...yeah he got "the talk". Hes and old friend so it wasnt the full version of it. I had to rebuild a shifter for him, which is one of The reasons I Love Campagnolo. So I took parts from both shifters I had from him and put together a perfect working right side Record shifter.
I attempted to take pics of the process in case some of you out there havent seen it. These are 10spd shifters, so the internals for the 11spd are completely different. This is the way I was taught, and have tweaked it a bit to suit me, so this is not "the way" for everyone.
If you wondered why I didnt show how to take it apart, I figured you could just look at the progression "backwards".
 |
| Both shifters and their parts. These are the "backside" internals, the front is more or less just the paddle internals which operate it as the return.You can see the difference in generation by the color and materials used in both. While mechanically the same, a few tweaks are made annually. |
 |
These are the most replaced parts inside a Campy shifter. The "leaf springs"...aka..."G springs" tend to flatten out over time. They usually cost around $5/each. The carrier usually breaks to the left side just above the post(its hard to see). It usually costs $15 bucks.
|
 |
| These are the tools needed...and a vice to hold a 5mm allen to mount the shifter to for use...youll see in the next photo. The screwdriver should be as wide and flat as possible. The one in the photo is a lil too small. |
 |
| This is the best way Ive found to do the work. Theres a 5mm bolt head inside the body,behind the brake arm. |
 |
| this is what you should see when looking down. That bearing will be a bushing in the lower tier lines |
 |
| the new leaf springs mounted inside the carrier, you simply invert it and aim the post to the upper right corner of the body. |
 |
| just like that. you want to use some sort of super slick oil or grease for this. i like the Buzzys Slick Honey |
 |
| Next is the cover for the carrier. Indent side down and match the opening with the post |
 |
| like so |
 |
| next is the ratchet ring and washer. the washer gets mounted inside the ratchet... |
 |
| like so... |
 |
| You the flip it over and slot it inside with the tab to the right on the right side and left on the left side. You will have to use a lil force to push it down in. |
 |
| once in, you can manually twist the shifter on the 5mm allen head and make sure its in right by counting the number of clicks. |
 |
| I didnt really get it right, but theres a hole at the tip of that poker youll need to use for the next step,and the poker helps. |
 |
| so thats a blurry spring in hande and it slots into the ratchet. the part thats sticking out at the top slips into the slit on the ratchet and then into the hole. |
 |
| like so |
 |
| theres the hole and top of the spring |
 |
| next up is the pain the ass part when youre learning how to do this. The thumb button. Theres a hole in the buttons ring that the spring you just put in gets put into. This is also where you have to create tension in the spring you just installed. |
 |
| as you can see the thumb button doesnt line up right if you simply put the barb from the spring into the ring. You have to then twist and push in at the same time, in a counter clockwise motion. Once its in place I usually hold it with my thumb, as Ive gotten a nice lil system down for securing it. |
 |
| holding it in place, using more force than the photo does service to |
 |
| you then take the next piece, the cylinder with a cross of slits in the top and a super wide slot on the bottom. Once you get the bottom tip in DO NOT push it all way down. Use the screwdriver and gently twist it so it gets past the spring you placed in last but not to the point of engaging the slotted bolt underneath it. |
 |
| still holding the thumb button in place with the "push pin"ready for the return spring |
 |
| now this requires some finesse. You have the outside barb on coil and the inside bard. The outside barb hooks the post from the leaf spring carrier. the inside barb gets slotted into the THIN slit of the piece you just put in and DID NOT secure. |
 |
| still holding the thumb button, use the screwdriver to orient the pin so that you can place the return spring in the proper position for both barbs. to tension it and to set the pin in place, take the screwdriver and place it inside the wide slot in the pin. begin turning it it counter clockwise and pressing down at the same time. in doing so you will tension the spring and set the pin into the slotted bolt underneath it. |
 |
| if youre feeling lucky you can let go of the thumb button, if not, keep a finger on it just in case. |
 |
| take the slotted spring cover and line the tabs up with the wide slots on the pin |
 |
| carefully insert the 3mm bolt through all of the parts you just installed and tighten it firmly. DO NOT use ball end of an allen key to tighten it. Youll round out the bolt head. |
 |
| done...? |
 |
| place plastic cover on |
 |
| like so. |
 |
| youre done. now just run through all the gears and make sure its all good. |
 |
| time to install it |
 |
| back in action |
 |
| Couple tips on bar tape and your housing. those 2 lil pieces of black tape most of you do to keep the housing from moving dont actually work. run the tape from the shifter to just where the handlebar tape to, |
 |
| like so. this holds the housing secure, the handlebar tape isnt made to do that. its made to make your bars comfy and look good. |
 |
| also, when youre finishing the wrap, DO NOT wrap the bar itself, its does nothing but make a mess and get hot and pull off in the sun. The edge of the finishing tape should match up with the edge of the handlebar tape |
 |
| keeps things nice and clean looking |
 |
| do not use the "cheater strips" of tape if possible. Do the X cross in the back. practice makes perfect |
 |
| if done correctly, there shouldnt be a bulge |
 |
| the boys were helping me test out the shifting by pedaling for me |
 |
| the finished patient. A true neo-classic Italian machine. Fondriest. Still riding great after almost a decade. |
 |
| quality Mizuno fork |
 |
| very nice frame materials make all the difference |
 |
| again another plug for the interchangability of Campy parts |
 |
| everyone is ready to go |
I hope that wasnt too terribly boring to read and hopefully made sense to those of you who made it this far. Im done...
...boots out.
